'Basque' in the Experience

by Wendy Hall, Pays Basque Walker, September 2009


I am still smiling! This is my response whenever anyone asks about my Wayfarers’ trip to Pays Basque. The Basque region of France/Spain is a feast of wonder from the foothills of the Pyrenees to the ocean shore of Biarritz.

As hosts for the region, the Wayfarers’ staff was well-informed and enthusiastic. Our walk leader, Eric, was friendly and outgoing. Antonia, trip manager, was a master of unobtrusive pampering.

The walks were exhilarating. All of our senses were engaged. We encountered free roaming cows, goats and wild horses, some of them wearing large bells which sounded in the mountain mists. Eric pointed out flavorful wild berries and figs for us to taste. We stopped along the trail to visit a red pepper farm where the women where drying their bright red wares on large racks.


The food was wonderful. We experienced a variety of regional dishes – including fish, beef, veal and pork - all excellent. The paella in Spain was particularly outstanding. The desserts were flavorful works of art.

Every hotel was elegant yet comfortable.


The Pays Basque trip was perfect. I was traveling alone and wanted to be with a group of friendly folks, including other singles. I wanted to feel safe. Spending some time by the ocean was important to me. The challenge level of the walk had to be high enough that I would have to work hard. Good food and pleasant accommodations were important. And, I was ready to have an adventure. The trip met all of my criteria.

I kept a journal during my trip to Pays Basque. The following are some of my comments from that journal: This is wonderful (about arrival in France). I love it! (about the Hotel Ithurria). It was heavenly (about the chocolate cake with melted chocolate inside). It has been superb (after the first 2 days of the walk). This experience is incredible (day 3). I look forward to another grand day tomorrow (day 4). Dinner was amazing. This has been a fairy tale (the last night).

The trip to Pays Basque was a gift I gave myself. Yet, I received gifts every day from the countries we visited and from the people I met. I am still smiling.

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More about The Wayfarers Walking Vacation in Pays Basque in 2010

Alaska Mysteries Revealed - Murder on the Iditarod!

by Julie Johnson, Alaska Walk Leader

I had a nice chat with a friend of mine, Louise Halfpenny, the other day. I asked her “just what was it that surprised you most about Alaska?” Louise is a Wayfarers’ Old Friend and is in the Founders’ Circle. We met eight years ago on a Wayfarers’ walk in Derbyshire, and since then, I’ve had the privilege of walking with her on a number of Wayfarers walks. I was thrilled when she joined our Alaskan Odyssey last summer because I love showing off the surprises of Alaska to friends.

Louise’s first impression of Alaska was a pretty common one – she said the enormity of the landscape blew her away, but then in the same breath she mentioned the warmth of the locals. Guests are introduced to lots of Alaskans during the week, most of them friends who have contributed to the flavor of Alaska that I know and love. Louise also loved Seward, a small town at southern end of the Alaska Railroad and at the mouth of Resurrection Bay, the location of Kenai Fjords National Park. We visit Seward halfway through the walk and because of the attractions there, we have scheduled a free afternoon for guests to explore this tiny, historic town famous for halibut, rain and friendly people. Louise and another guest set off on the drizzly afternoon and stumbled onto a tiny, locally owned book shop. They asked for a book which the owner didn’t have in stock…she apologized, but said “We have a real Alaskan author here today, though, would you like to meet Sue Henry?” They were excited to meet her – after all, the book she signed for them was “Murder on the Iditarod Trail,” and we had just spent the morning learning about the Iditarod and playing with puppies at musher Mitch Seavey’s kennel. They had no idea how envious I would be when they told their story at dinner that evening!

Sue is one of those “real” Alaskans, a person who lives and works there, loves the land, its people and her craft. I can’t imagine a better way to spend a blustery afternoon than inside a cozy bookstore, talking heart to heart with her. Sue is warm, direct and funny. Her seamless writing style makes it look easy, but she dedicates many hours to research. In her first book, “Murder on the Iditarod Trail,” she talked with mushers about everything from raising championship pups to how to treat a dog’s sore foot to racing strategy. She has a keen eye for current events and weaves non-fiction and fiction, making stories that much more believable. “Murder on the Iditarod Trail” was published in 1991 – it met with critical acclaim and won several awards, including the Macavity Award for Best First Novel (a little obscure to most, but impressive to a mystery lover like me!). Since, Sue has written 16 books, all of which involve Alaska. I took a class from her years ago and the advice that stuck with me is “Always be fair to your readers. Give them what they need to solve the mystery themselves – never throw them a loop at the end of the story, or you’ll lose your fans….”

Because I’m on my way to the start of the Iditarod in a couple of weeks, I decided to re-read “Murder on the Iditarod Trail.” I forgot how much fun her books can be! She grabs you right away – you care about the characters, you share their frustration when the sled crashes and feel the sparks fly between her beautifully crafted characters State Trooper Alex Jensen and musher Jessie Arnold. Sue doesn’t mess around, either. Although murder has never occurred on the Iditarod trail – in fact no mushers have ever died on the trail – three sudden deaths occur under suspicious circumstances. While she crafts the story, she manages to educate the reader about people, mushing, the history of the Iditarod and life in Alaska without it sounding like a textbook.

I absolutely recommend “Murder on the Iditarod Trail” to anyone interested in the Iditarod, Alaska or a good mystery. It’s a wild ride – but so is the Iditarod, and so is the Alaskan Odyssey! And I am now REALLY excited about my trip to the start of the Iditarod in Anchorage on March 6 – stay tuned for my Facebook and twitter entries! You’ll meet dogs, mushers and if we’re really lucky – maybe I’ll run into Sue Henry scouting ideas for her next novel!

To learn more:

Order the Book - Murder on the Iditarod by Sue Henry

Find out more about the Iditarod

Find our more abou the Ididaride

More about Seward, Alaska

More about Hotel Seward

More about The Wayfarers Alaska Adventure Walking Vacation

Greece - A Personal View

By Chris Hague, The Wayfarers' Co-Founder and host of the Greece Trip

One difficulty of which I was immediately aware on my first trip to Greece was choosing from menus. The English translations were, to say the least unappetizing as, for example Boiled Greens – something reminiscent of 1950 school dinners. So it was a revelation on my following trip a year later when Greek friends introduced me to the real Greece and its delicious food. They ordered boiled greens at every opportunity. In Greek it is called Horta, fresh leaves of every variety collected from the hills and mountains served hot or cold with a drizzle of olive oil and it became my very favourite dish.

Then there was Stuffed Eggplant called Papoutsaki meaning ‘Little Shoe’. And Gemista (stuffed vegetables) both freshly oven baked and served with a variety of small dishes – this makes a welcome lunch following a long morning’s walk in the lush countryside of the Kelami valley near Sparta. The Peloponnese is blessed with salads, vegetables and fish the year round and locals demand freshly prepared seasonal food.

Village people were always welcoming to us wherever we went. Several occasions during our walks when stopping off at a bar or café – we would be invited to drinks by locals who were always curious to know where we had come from and how much we liked their countryside and churches.

The Peloponnese lends itself to the determined and inquisitive traveler. Scant public transport and underdeveloped roads pose a challenge but the rewards are to escape the herded tourist areas – to discover Mycenaean relics for oneself and explore a myriad of tracks and byways in a landscape filled with past civilisations, is an experience that lingers on. I could never tire of looking at Mistras from the foothills some 2/3 miles distant where you have a perfect perspective of this ancient town clinging to the steep mountain, reminiscent of an imagined landscape from Lord of The Rings.

Close to the sea shore near Monemvasia in Lakonia, I enjoy leading people to discover in the nearby fields massive building blocks fitted together Inca style, once the foundations of a vast settlement where people thousands of years ago had fished farmed and traded. Quality of wine in this region has no doubt improved since those days but the pretty river valleys, arid mountains and the vivid green of the hills and byways remain the same.

The memorable sight at the end of my trip was a fine perspective from the sea of Monemvasia – this massive hulk of rock joined by a causeway has a fortified village at the southern tip and one wondered what terrors were in store for past generations at the sight of approaching ships from the west.

A Note About the Author: Chris Hague founded The Wayfarers in 1984 jointly with Michael West. He has traveled the world and loves nothing better than sharing the joy of discovery of a new place on foot. As The Wayfarers' Co-Founder, Chris has pioneered many of our new walks and still leads and hosts Walks.

Walking vacations and tours in Greece

Greece On Foot - Surrounded by the Recorded History of the Western World

Walking in the Peloponnese
by Ben Giles

In southern Greece you are surrounded by the recorded history of the western world. To tread underfoot the stones of the citadel of Mycenae, the fortified town of Mistra, Epidavros' stunning open air theatre and the rock fortress of Monemvasia, is to take a journey with the blueprints of European society and history as a guide.

Here still standing amidst the modern state of Greece are the origins of literature, even writing itself, architecture, law, the systems of government, religion, art and philosophy. Indeed, not just the ancient Greek prototypes, but Greece's geographical positioning in the Mediterranean has made it a magnet for civilizations of the past 2,500 years.

The world described by Homer, the Phoenicians, the Minoans, and the Myceneans, all flourished for a thousand years before those we know as the Classical Greeks of Athens and Sparta. The Romans added Greece to their empire, adopting much of its culture and, as the poet Horace commented, 'Rome itself was made captive by the capture of Greece'.

But Greece is so much more than the Greeks and Romans – here too over the centuries there have settled and fought and traded the Persians, Egyptians, Byzantines, Franks, Venetians, and Turks, the British, Russians, Germans, and French. Not least there is modern Greece, with a rich story of struggle for independence from the days of Theodore Kolokotronis and Ioannis Capodistria, through the creation of a fledging modern state, to its transformation as a member of the European Union.

On foot, wandering through this landscape of mountains, river valleys and coastal plains, along ancient tracks, past ruined tombs or walls and across streams and fields, whether to see a famous site or one tucked away and now largely forgotten, is perhaps the best way to glimpse Greece's diverse culture and history, and, as the saying goes, allow the mute stones to speak.

Note about the Author: Ben Giles leads The Wayfarers Walking Vacations in Greece. Ben grew up in England but now lives with his young family in Wales. Having studied Classical Languages at Cambridge University he taught for a number of years in secondary schools before moving into guiding and writing. A keen outdoor enthusiast, he has walked and hiked in many parts of the UK and Europe, and he has a particular interest in the culture and history of Greece.

A Sicilian Sojourn

by Michael West

Much as I would love to, there is simply not enough time to visit all our Walk regions every year but, whenever I do get back, I am always reminded why we chose the area in the first place.

And so it was last November when I spent a week in Sicily as we needed to make some changes to our Walk itinerary. (Our new Sicily Itinerary is now posted on our website.) Everything about the island is stunning – no wonder the Greeks, Arabs, Romans and Bourbons fought over it for centuries and were so reluctant to leave, but they all left their mark on the food, the people and the architecture that form the modern Sicily.

THE FOOD: As an avid reader of Andrea Camilleri’s series of novels set in Sicily (see our Reading List), I was familiar with the culinary preferences of his hero, Inspector Montalbano, whose visits to the local restaurants are described in mouth-watering detail. To read these beautifully-written crime stories is, as much as anything, a gourmet guide to Sicilian cuisine; the simple arancini, fried rice balls coated with breadcrumbs, a recipe said to have originated in the 10th century, and filled with meat and tomato sauce, mozzarella and peas; pizza as good as any you will find in its birthplace, Naples, across the water; all manner of seafood, especially tuna, swordfish and sardines, fresh from the Mediterranean, never more than a few kilometers from our Walk; the luscious cannoli, crusty tubes of pastry filled with ricotta cream; and the array of fruit and vegetables….and the cheese….and the wine….all products of the lush verdant countryside through which we walk. Oh, and the famous Modica chocolate is not to be missed!

THE ARCHITECTURE: In Siracusa the great Duomo forms one side of, arguably, the finest piazza in Italy; the Greek theatres, Parco Archaeologico and the catacombs are all memorable. The church of San Giorgio in Ragusa Ibla, the baroque opulence of Noto and the unbelievable Teatro Greco (Greek Theatre) in Taormina with its stunning views to Mt Etna and the sea are but a taste of the architectural feast on offer.

THE PEOPLE: Everywhere we walk, we encounter an amazing hospitality from the locals we meet – the contadino picking his olives, tending his vines, minding his crops, herding his sheep; the old ladies gossiping in the shade; the street vendors offering fish, fresh fruit, ice cream; all are happy to greet us with a wide smile and chat to us in their local dialect – with a little help from our Walk Leader; but there is no mistaking the sincerity of the welcome.

THE HOTELS: On Sunday and Monday, we are returning to an old favourite, the Eremo della Giubiliana, a family-owned former convent set in its own estate near Ragusa. The surrounding farm supplies most of the ingredients of the cuisine for which the hotel is renowned. I really love this hotel – the rooms, the country views down to the sea, the swimming pool; there is even a necropolis in the garden!

I discovered a lovely boutique hotel in Siracusa, so new it’s not even in the guide-books. I came across the Hotel Algila as I wandered the streets of the old town and was immediately taken by its mix of casual old-fashioned charm and modern chic and comfort. It’s on the sea and yet right in the centre of town. I knew immediately it was an hotel perfect for Wayfarers and we will stay there on Tuesday and Wednesday.

And so to Taormina. What can I say about the Hotel Monte Tauro? I know I am given to hyperbole but this location has everything, high on the cliffs with sweeping views of the Mediterranean – magnificent! Did you know that DH Lawrence lived in Taormina for three years?

THE WALKING: The landscape through which we journey has infinite variety. We will walk on the slopes and foothills of Mt Etna, one of the most active volcanoes in the world. We stroll along the sandy seaside footpaths of the Vendicari Nature Reserve, home to thousands of migrating birds, and relax on the walls of a former tuna fishery as the waves lap gently at our feet. We hike through the gorge of Ispica, where the silence is broken only by the bleating of sheep and the clanging of their bells, and we visit the fascinating troglodyte dwellings. And every day we walk in verdant countryside – through vineyards and lush farmland whose produce we will savour at our dinner table.

This week in Sicily is walking, seeing, enjoying, eating: the sheer joy of appreciating and being enveloped by an ancient culture, its monuments and its legacy. This is as good as it gets!

• This new itinerary differs from that shown in our 2010 brochure. The Walk is now six nights and is scheduled for 16th – 22nd May and 3rd – 9th October 2010. US$3995 per person (US$495 Single Room Supplement).
• Full details on our website – www.thewayfarers.com

Walking & Talking With Fit for Trips

We are excited about working with Fit for Trips which means our walkers can choose to improve their current fitness levels in ways designed to enhance their enjoyment of their specific walking vacation itinerary. We thought it would be interesting to find out a bit more about Fit for Trips and it's Founder and Personal Trainer, Marcus Shapiro (pictured, left)! We're particularly intrigued by Marcus' most memorable vacation happening...

The Wayfarers: What is Fit for Trips?

Marcus: We are a fitness company, but I would put Fit for Trips under the umbrella of adventure or active travel. We create what we call “pre-departure” fitness programs. These fitness programs are designed to prepare travelers for any activity in their itinerary. Our fitness programs are to be initiated anywhere from 4 to 12 weeks prior to departure. Our full support lasts all the way up until the day of departure. Fit for Trips give travelers a much greater chance to enjoy their trip to the fullest, and we ultimately want all travelers to bring home great memories and stories. We create programs that train adventurers for single day excursions, moderate intensity multi-day trips, and epic challenges.

The Wayfarers: At The Wayfarers' we have always maintained that if someone is reasonably fit, they will enjoy a walking vacation. If this is so , then why would someone need to start working out to prepare for their walk?

Marcus: You booked The Wayfarer walking vacation of a lifetime because you know the guides and itineraries are second to none. So upon arrival you have nothing but potential. But as soon as foot hits the ground, that potential is fully realized only if you are energetic, alert and engaged as you journey one step at a time. These long days of learning and exploring always lead to something you wouldn't dare miss. However, your path is sometimes met with a bit of a challenge (i.e., ascending ancient stairs, strolling over uneven cobblestone pathways, walking grassy knolls and expansive fields, descending exhilarating switchbacks, tiptoeing over river rocks). Although, encouraging guides and a little bit of perseverance will get you where you need to go, you don't really want to be distracted by sore muscles in your feet, legs and back.

The Wayfarers: What is your favorite vacation activity?

Marcus: My favorite vacation activity used to be mountain biking. Now that I have children we find places to walk or hike wherever we travel to. These days we visit the children's grandparents. On our most recent trip to see my mom in South Florida, we visited Jonathan Dickinson State Park and enjoyed the unique foliage; we saw a family of wild hogs; and the kids loved Hobe Mountain Observation Tower atop an 86 foot high ancient sand dune. When we travel to Portage, Indiana to see the in-laws we visit Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore. It's a bit uncanny that they both have sand dunes. Almost every weekend we hike in the Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area near our house. Set me afoot a narrow trail, with many twists and turns, accompanied by my family and I'm a happy guy.

The Wayfarers: In your travels, which country have you most enjoyed visiting and why?

Marcus: Kenya and Tanzania wins out over Galapagos slightly. It was probably the size of the animals that were the real difference. In both places I saw life emerge from the womb and death of young by predator. The mix of emotions were more than I had ever experienced and strangely it seemed like a gift to experience the grapple between joy and anguish. In the end for me there emerged a real sense of peace knowing that that the force of nature would live on and on for others to witness - hopefully - for many decades more. On a much lighter note the accommodations catapulted Africa to the top, especially Camp Kirawira in the Western Serengeti. The tented camps were exquisite, comfortable and when they cut the power off at night you could not see your hand in front of your face. You could, however, hear animals crying in the night.

The Wayfarers: What is the most memorable thing that happened to you on vacation?

Marcus: It's hard to isolate just one memorable vacation experience. However, one that sticks in my mind happened while conversing with our Tanzanian safari guide, Philip, while traveling from one accommodation to another. Of course I initiated the discussion about exercise. I had to explain to Philip what exercise was. He did not understand why we exercised but his answer assured me that he understood enough. Philip explained that the villagers get their exercise by herding cattle, and jumping up and down during ritual dances. I reciprocated with our own version of exercise back home: I explained that some people get in shape by walking on treadmills or riding stationary bikes. "Walking but not going anywhere?" is what Philip asked. He repeatedly made this whistling sound and covered his face in disbelief. Explaining the treadmill was a very challenging cognitive exercise. This memory remains one of my travel favorites.

OFFER: Until April 9, book a walking vacation with The Wayfarers receive 50% off a Fit for Trips program customised for your trip itinerary.


Marcus Shapiro, founder of Fit for Trips, brings 20 years experience in personal fitness training to benefit adventure travelers interested in improving their fitness in specific ways geared to enhance their vacation experience. Marcus earned a BS in Atheletic Training from the University of Alabama where he worked as an athletic trainer for their Division 1 teams, and continued his training by qualifying as a Certified Strength & Conditioning Specialist (CSCS). (The CSCS designation, prevalent in collegiate, professional and Olympic conditioning coaching, ensures that my clients receive the most progressive and up-to-date training techniques.) As a personal trainer, Marcus continually hones his knowlege and skills by putting promising new exercise and fitness program into practice - testing new techniques, working with his clients and using what works best in his custom Fit for Trips programs. In addition to running Fit for Trips, Marcus continues to work with clients at the Atlanta Falcons Physical Therapy Centers in Marietta, Georgia, as a trusted personal trainer.

Literature Lovers can now follow Jane Austen's Footsteps with the Newest Wayfarers' Walking Vacation

Six-day UK Sojourn Explores Austen’s Inspiration for Her Timeless Classics

Newport, Rhode Island, January 21, 2010 – Participants in the Wayfarers’ newest literary-influenced Walk are invited to travel along Hampshire’s village lanes and footpaths, exploring the quaint region that served as motivation for much of Jane Austen’s perceptive and often biting social commentary in the late 1700s and early 1800s. Among the stopping points are Steventon, home to Jane’s father’s rectory; the village of Chawton, later home of Jane Austen and site of today’s Jane Austen Museum; and Oakley Hall, the 18th-century Manor House Hotel considered the inspiration for Mansfield Park. After strolling along paths and passing classic cottages familiar to Jane Austen, walkers arrive at the ancient Winchester cathedral, Jane Austen’s final resting place. Other highlights include a song recital and a pre-dinner discussion led by a Jane Austen expert about Jane and her literary masterpieces including Emma, Northanger Abbey, Pride and Prejudice, and Sense and Sensibility.

Beginning in Steventon and ending in Winchester, the six-day all-inclusive Walk is priced at $3,595 per person, based on double occupancy, and includes accommodations, meals and trail snacks, wine with dinner, entrance fees, guides, van transport for moving luggage and resting walkers, all taxes and gratuities at hotels and restaurants, and more :

Dates: June 27-July 2, 2010
July 25-30, 2010
August 29-September 3, 2010

Terrain: Country byways, well-trodden footpaths, village lanes

Challenge Level: Easy, with a pace of 6-10 miles per day

The Wayfarers

Named by National Geographic Traveler as purveyor of one of the “50 Tours of a Lifetime,” and by National Geographic Adventure as one of the “Best Hiking Companies,” The Wayfarers offers an eco-aware “walking” holiday of both culture and fitness in 14 countries with 85 Walks. Literary itineraries include the new Brontë and Jane Austen Walks in the UK and add an element of historical magic. Newest locations cover Alaska, Greece, Venice and the Veneto (Founder’s Walk), Northern Ireland, Slovakia and the Basque Country. Other popular walks are in Croatia, Amalfi Coast, Czech Republic, England, Scotland, Italy, France, New Zealand, Maine and Southwest USA. A barging/Walk combination in Burgundy is also offered, and private group itineraries can be arranged. In its 27th year, The Wayfarers offers exclusive entrées into homes and gardens otherwise closed to the public, graceful accommodations, outstanding cuisine, and meetings with local residents. Walks range from 5-12 days and are rated easy to challenging. www.thewayfarers.com, 800- 249-4620.





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