A Sicilian Sojourn

by Michael West

Much as I would love to, there is simply not enough time to visit all our Walk regions every year but, whenever I do get back, I am always reminded why we chose the area in the first place.

And so it was last November when I spent a week in Sicily as we needed to make some changes to our Walk itinerary. (Our new Sicily Itinerary is now posted on our website.) Everything about the island is stunning – no wonder the Greeks, Arabs, Romans and Bourbons fought over it for centuries and were so reluctant to leave, but they all left their mark on the food, the people and the architecture that form the modern Sicily.

THE FOOD: As an avid reader of Andrea Camilleri’s series of novels set in Sicily (see our Reading List), I was familiar with the culinary preferences of his hero, Inspector Montalbano, whose visits to the local restaurants are described in mouth-watering detail. To read these beautifully-written crime stories is, as much as anything, a gourmet guide to Sicilian cuisine; the simple arancini, fried rice balls coated with breadcrumbs, a recipe said to have originated in the 10th century, and filled with meat and tomato sauce, mozzarella and peas; pizza as good as any you will find in its birthplace, Naples, across the water; all manner of seafood, especially tuna, swordfish and sardines, fresh from the Mediterranean, never more than a few kilometers from our Walk; the luscious cannoli, crusty tubes of pastry filled with ricotta cream; and the array of fruit and vegetables….and the cheese….and the wine….all products of the lush verdant countryside through which we walk. Oh, and the famous Modica chocolate is not to be missed!

THE ARCHITECTURE: In Siracusa the great Duomo forms one side of, arguably, the finest piazza in Italy; the Greek theatres, Parco Archaeologico and the catacombs are all memorable. The church of San Giorgio in Ragusa Ibla, the baroque opulence of Noto and the unbelievable Teatro Greco (Greek Theatre) in Taormina with its stunning views to Mt Etna and the sea are but a taste of the architectural feast on offer.

THE PEOPLE: Everywhere we walk, we encounter an amazing hospitality from the locals we meet – the contadino picking his olives, tending his vines, minding his crops, herding his sheep; the old ladies gossiping in the shade; the street vendors offering fish, fresh fruit, ice cream; all are happy to greet us with a wide smile and chat to us in their local dialect – with a little help from our Walk Leader; but there is no mistaking the sincerity of the welcome.

THE HOTELS: On Sunday and Monday, we are returning to an old favourite, the Eremo della Giubiliana, a family-owned former convent set in its own estate near Ragusa. The surrounding farm supplies most of the ingredients of the cuisine for which the hotel is renowned. I really love this hotel – the rooms, the country views down to the sea, the swimming pool; there is even a necropolis in the garden!

I discovered a lovely boutique hotel in Siracusa, so new it’s not even in the guide-books. I came across the Hotel Algila as I wandered the streets of the old town and was immediately taken by its mix of casual old-fashioned charm and modern chic and comfort. It’s on the sea and yet right in the centre of town. I knew immediately it was an hotel perfect for Wayfarers and we will stay there on Tuesday and Wednesday.

And so to Taormina. What can I say about the Hotel Monte Tauro? I know I am given to hyperbole but this location has everything, high on the cliffs with sweeping views of the Mediterranean – magnificent! Did you know that DH Lawrence lived in Taormina for three years?

THE WALKING: The landscape through which we journey has infinite variety. We will walk on the slopes and foothills of Mt Etna, one of the most active volcanoes in the world. We stroll along the sandy seaside footpaths of the Vendicari Nature Reserve, home to thousands of migrating birds, and relax on the walls of a former tuna fishery as the waves lap gently at our feet. We hike through the gorge of Ispica, where the silence is broken only by the bleating of sheep and the clanging of their bells, and we visit the fascinating troglodyte dwellings. And every day we walk in verdant countryside – through vineyards and lush farmland whose produce we will savour at our dinner table.

This week in Sicily is walking, seeing, enjoying, eating: the sheer joy of appreciating and being enveloped by an ancient culture, its monuments and its legacy. This is as good as it gets!

• This new itinerary differs from that shown in our 2010 brochure. The Walk is now six nights and is scheduled for 16th – 22nd May and 3rd – 9th October 2010. US$3995 per person (US$495 Single Room Supplement).
• Full details on our website – www.thewayfarers.com

Walking & Talking With Fit for Trips

We are excited about working with Fit for Trips which means our walkers can choose to improve their current fitness levels in ways designed to enhance their enjoyment of their specific walking vacation itinerary. We thought it would be interesting to find out a bit more about Fit for Trips and it's Founder and Personal Trainer, Marcus Shapiro (pictured, left)! We're particularly intrigued by Marcus' most memorable vacation happening...

The Wayfarers: What is Fit for Trips?

Marcus: We are a fitness company, but I would put Fit for Trips under the umbrella of adventure or active travel. We create what we call “pre-departure” fitness programs. These fitness programs are designed to prepare travelers for any activity in their itinerary. Our fitness programs are to be initiated anywhere from 4 to 12 weeks prior to departure. Our full support lasts all the way up until the day of departure. Fit for Trips give travelers a much greater chance to enjoy their trip to the fullest, and we ultimately want all travelers to bring home great memories and stories. We create programs that train adventurers for single day excursions, moderate intensity multi-day trips, and epic challenges.

The Wayfarers: At The Wayfarers' we have always maintained that if someone is reasonably fit, they will enjoy a walking vacation. If this is so , then why would someone need to start working out to prepare for their walk?

Marcus: You booked The Wayfarer walking vacation of a lifetime because you know the guides and itineraries are second to none. So upon arrival you have nothing but potential. But as soon as foot hits the ground, that potential is fully realized only if you are energetic, alert and engaged as you journey one step at a time. These long days of learning and exploring always lead to something you wouldn't dare miss. However, your path is sometimes met with a bit of a challenge (i.e., ascending ancient stairs, strolling over uneven cobblestone pathways, walking grassy knolls and expansive fields, descending exhilarating switchbacks, tiptoeing over river rocks). Although, encouraging guides and a little bit of perseverance will get you where you need to go, you don't really want to be distracted by sore muscles in your feet, legs and back.

The Wayfarers: What is your favorite vacation activity?

Marcus: My favorite vacation activity used to be mountain biking. Now that I have children we find places to walk or hike wherever we travel to. These days we visit the children's grandparents. On our most recent trip to see my mom in South Florida, we visited Jonathan Dickinson State Park and enjoyed the unique foliage; we saw a family of wild hogs; and the kids loved Hobe Mountain Observation Tower atop an 86 foot high ancient sand dune. When we travel to Portage, Indiana to see the in-laws we visit Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore. It's a bit uncanny that they both have sand dunes. Almost every weekend we hike in the Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area near our house. Set me afoot a narrow trail, with many twists and turns, accompanied by my family and I'm a happy guy.

The Wayfarers: In your travels, which country have you most enjoyed visiting and why?

Marcus: Kenya and Tanzania wins out over Galapagos slightly. It was probably the size of the animals that were the real difference. In both places I saw life emerge from the womb and death of young by predator. The mix of emotions were more than I had ever experienced and strangely it seemed like a gift to experience the grapple between joy and anguish. In the end for me there emerged a real sense of peace knowing that that the force of nature would live on and on for others to witness - hopefully - for many decades more. On a much lighter note the accommodations catapulted Africa to the top, especially Camp Kirawira in the Western Serengeti. The tented camps were exquisite, comfortable and when they cut the power off at night you could not see your hand in front of your face. You could, however, hear animals crying in the night.

The Wayfarers: What is the most memorable thing that happened to you on vacation?

Marcus: It's hard to isolate just one memorable vacation experience. However, one that sticks in my mind happened while conversing with our Tanzanian safari guide, Philip, while traveling from one accommodation to another. Of course I initiated the discussion about exercise. I had to explain to Philip what exercise was. He did not understand why we exercised but his answer assured me that he understood enough. Philip explained that the villagers get their exercise by herding cattle, and jumping up and down during ritual dances. I reciprocated with our own version of exercise back home: I explained that some people get in shape by walking on treadmills or riding stationary bikes. "Walking but not going anywhere?" is what Philip asked. He repeatedly made this whistling sound and covered his face in disbelief. Explaining the treadmill was a very challenging cognitive exercise. This memory remains one of my travel favorites.

OFFER: Until April 9, book a walking vacation with The Wayfarers receive 50% off a Fit for Trips program customised for your trip itinerary.


Marcus Shapiro, founder of Fit for Trips, brings 20 years experience in personal fitness training to benefit adventure travelers interested in improving their fitness in specific ways geared to enhance their vacation experience. Marcus earned a BS in Atheletic Training from the University of Alabama where he worked as an athletic trainer for their Division 1 teams, and continued his training by qualifying as a Certified Strength & Conditioning Specialist (CSCS). (The CSCS designation, prevalent in collegiate, professional and Olympic conditioning coaching, ensures that my clients receive the most progressive and up-to-date training techniques.) As a personal trainer, Marcus continually hones his knowlege and skills by putting promising new exercise and fitness program into practice - testing new techniques, working with his clients and using what works best in his custom Fit for Trips programs. In addition to running Fit for Trips, Marcus continues to work with clients at the Atlanta Falcons Physical Therapy Centers in Marietta, Georgia, as a trusted personal trainer.

Literature Lovers can now follow Jane Austen's Footsteps with the Newest Wayfarers' Walking Vacation

Six-day UK Sojourn Explores Austen’s Inspiration for Her Timeless Classics

Newport, Rhode Island, January 21, 2010 – Participants in the Wayfarers’ newest literary-influenced Walk are invited to travel along Hampshire’s village lanes and footpaths, exploring the quaint region that served as motivation for much of Jane Austen’s perceptive and often biting social commentary in the late 1700s and early 1800s. Among the stopping points are Steventon, home to Jane’s father’s rectory; the village of Chawton, later home of Jane Austen and site of today’s Jane Austen Museum; and Oakley Hall, the 18th-century Manor House Hotel considered the inspiration for Mansfield Park. After strolling along paths and passing classic cottages familiar to Jane Austen, walkers arrive at the ancient Winchester cathedral, Jane Austen’s final resting place. Other highlights include a song recital and a pre-dinner discussion led by a Jane Austen expert about Jane and her literary masterpieces including Emma, Northanger Abbey, Pride and Prejudice, and Sense and Sensibility.

Beginning in Steventon and ending in Winchester, the six-day all-inclusive Walk is priced at $3,595 per person, based on double occupancy, and includes accommodations, meals and trail snacks, wine with dinner, entrance fees, guides, van transport for moving luggage and resting walkers, all taxes and gratuities at hotels and restaurants, and more :

Dates: June 27-July 2, 2010
July 25-30, 2010
August 29-September 3, 2010

Terrain: Country byways, well-trodden footpaths, village lanes

Challenge Level: Easy, with a pace of 6-10 miles per day

The Wayfarers

Named by National Geographic Traveler as purveyor of one of the “50 Tours of a Lifetime,” and by National Geographic Adventure as one of the “Best Hiking Companies,” The Wayfarers offers an eco-aware “walking” holiday of both culture and fitness in 14 countries with 85 Walks. Literary itineraries include the new Brontë and Jane Austen Walks in the UK and add an element of historical magic. Newest locations cover Alaska, Greece, Venice and the Veneto (Founder’s Walk), Northern Ireland, Slovakia and the Basque Country. Other popular walks are in Croatia, Amalfi Coast, Czech Republic, England, Scotland, Italy, France, New Zealand, Maine and Southwest USA. A barging/Walk combination in Burgundy is also offered, and private group itineraries can be arranged. In its 27th year, The Wayfarers offers exclusive entrées into homes and gardens otherwise closed to the public, graceful accommodations, outstanding cuisine, and meetings with local residents. Walks range from 5-12 days and are rated easy to challenging. www.thewayfarers.com, 800- 249-4620.





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Walking to a Healthier You in 2010

The Wayfarers has teamed up with Fit for Trips to make it easier than ever to make planning your walking vacation the first step toward a healthier, happier 2010.

When you book a walking vacation with The Wayfarers, Fit for Trips is offering 50% off any of their custom fitness programs, tailored especially to get you in shape for your walking itinerary and beyond.

The offer lasts until April 9, 2010. Contact The Wayfarers and mention your interest in the 'Fitness Special' with Fit for Trips.

Lunch with Philippa at Politics and Prose Bookshop in DC

When: Monday, January 25
11:30am-12:30pm

Where: Politics and Prose Bookshop
5015 connecticut Ave, NE
Washington DC

Our Walk Leader Extraordinaire, Philippa Besant, will be coming to Washington and would like to meet you!

Philippa leads our walks in Northern Ireland, The Cotswolds and has just designed a NEW Walk in lovely Hampshire, based on the life and times of Jane Austen (a complement to our Brontë Walk in Yorkshire).

You are invited to join Philippa for an informative talk with photos followed by a casual lunch in the bookstore café!

Please RSVP with your full name to Judy Allpress from our Newport RI Office.
Email: judyallpress@thewayfarers.com
Phone: 1-800-249-4620

Wine, Cheese & Chat with Philippa & Judy

What: Wine & Cheese Reception with a fun presentation of our walking vacations
Where: Baltimore, Maryland
When: Saturday, January 23, 2010 form 4:00-6:00pm

Join Walk Leader, Philippa Besant, and Wayfarer, Judy Allpress, for a wine and cheese reception and informative talk with photo presentation. Philippa also leads our Walk in The Cotswolds and has designed a new Jane Austen Walk in lovely Hamphsire. Hope to see you there!

Spaces are limited. Please RSVP to Judy Allpress - toll free 800-249-4620